Bangaluru last stop on our India part of the tour. Again arriving in the cover of darkness we fended off hordes of taxi drivers to make our way to the airport shuttle and started the 40km journey into town.
The conductor oh so kindly let us off at our stop - about 3km away from where it actually should have been. Lucky the locals seemingly knew where we were going (quite unusual in India) and pointed us in the right direction - again inundated with taxi and rickshaw drivers insisting on taking us and it being very cheap (particularly if we just stopped at their cousins sisters brothers shop for a look!).
Brindavan Hotel appeared in the distance and we gratefully dumped our bags and headed off on the search for some dinner. As it was Saturday night it was really quite busy and Bangalore appears to be a bit of a party town. Lots of people out and about and plenty of drinking going on, more so than any place we had been so far - locals drinking that is, have seen plenty of trashed foreigners (from a very pious albeit very jealous enforced non drinker)dinner and drinks at Coco Grove and then back to crash.
To be honest we didn't really see a heck of a lot of Bangalore apart from the square mile from our hotel. Spent the next day on a technology trip, getting a new camera - so photos to start again soon, and a handy wee mini laptop. Headed to the movies, unfortunately all Bollywood films not in English or subtitled but still was a laugh. (no sweets for sale though, most disappointing and an intermission, most annoying).
Last day has been tidying up bits and pieces ready for our departure to Vietnam. An interesting sojourn to the Bangalore Central Post Office and a day full of testing Indian bureaucracy - full ID and DNA for internet use, pick product at one point - pay at other - collect at another for simple statue purchase, parcel has to be sewn into special Indian cotton blanket before it could be sent and of course we had to pay for the privilege - at a different counter of course....and breathe.
Needless to say we are a little relieved to be sitting at the airport waiting for our flight. Have enjoyed our time in India, has been interesting but trying at times, magical and totally unforgettable.
Monday, 12 April 2010
you have a lovely coconut
Managed to pick up a German travel friend, Annika, for our train journey to Varkala. Made it that much more interesting trying to find space in sleeper class (No AC/open tickets) with three as opposed to two. Squeezed our way into a compartment that was already probably too full but had a lovely accommodating family that made room for us and kept us entertained. Was a beautiful scenic trip along the coast - amazing lush greenery and lots of water inlets. So much to keep us occupied that we almost missed our stop - was a last minute dash off the train with our friends carrying baggage and passing it out the door to make sure we made it out in time.
Took a ride in an Ambassador (standard all Indian car - white exterior, fully carpeted interior, Indian made), the only way to travel to our new home for the next week or so - New Heaven, North cliff, Varkala.
Varkala - little beach town with a resort perched along the cliff of the beach. A strip of restaurants and shops along the cliff top path all seemingly selling the exact same thing. Strangest thing was that the majority of souveniors/shops were selling and run by Tibetans or Indians from other parts of the country - not really any local goods or food around, which is a shame as lovng the keralan food.
Spent just over a week here - standard beach activities, swimming, reading, sunbathing, sleeping, ice creams and lots of sweating. can tell you that it was spectacularly hot and exceptionally humid. Got treated to a fine array of tropical thunder adn lightening storms over the course of the week - monsoon approaching! The beach was nice, (no hawkers!!) but had an incredibuly strong rip - anna not really prepared to go over waist height as if youlost your footing you popped up twenty metres down the beach. There were however Indian's answer to Baywatch with two guys in beautiful blue safari style shirt adn shorts that petrolled the beach - that were soon on hand to blow their whistle at you and point to get out or move back up the beach if you looked out of control. They also did a fine job of trying to disperse the groups of indian guys 'walking' up and down the beach taking photos of the white girls in their bikinis on their mobile phones.
Was a treat to indulge in the seafood delights - again a welcome reprieve from the curry. Calamari, prawns, and all manner of fish - grouper, snapper, shark, king fish, butterfly fish, tuna. YUM!!!!
Varkala was also a reunoin of sorts for us with random meetings. Caught up with different people we had met in Goa, Kannur and even little old NZ. The NZ reunin was with the son of a good famiy friend of Anna's mum. Would be at least 16years since i had seen Clayton and was definately a little spinny - i knew that mum had ssaid him and his girlfriend Vanessa were in India, but what are the chances.... Made for lots of good dinner companions over the course of the week.
Little sad to be leaving the beach but excitement is building for Vietnam. Colin well adn truly embracing the travel vibe. Loved the comment - 'this is now officially the longest travel stint ever and think I am coping alright actually'.
Note: in reference to the title, a lovely little girl trying her hardest to sell us some particualrly crappy trinkets while we were trying to eat, was referring to colins bald head - needless to say he didn't buy anything!
Took a ride in an Ambassador (standard all Indian car - white exterior, fully carpeted interior, Indian made), the only way to travel to our new home for the next week or so - New Heaven, North cliff, Varkala.
Varkala - little beach town with a resort perched along the cliff of the beach. A strip of restaurants and shops along the cliff top path all seemingly selling the exact same thing. Strangest thing was that the majority of souveniors/shops were selling and run by Tibetans or Indians from other parts of the country - not really any local goods or food around, which is a shame as lovng the keralan food.
Spent just over a week here - standard beach activities, swimming, reading, sunbathing, sleeping, ice creams and lots of sweating. can tell you that it was spectacularly hot and exceptionally humid. Got treated to a fine array of tropical thunder adn lightening storms over the course of the week - monsoon approaching! The beach was nice, (no hawkers!!) but had an incredibuly strong rip - anna not really prepared to go over waist height as if youlost your footing you popped up twenty metres down the beach. There were however Indian's answer to Baywatch with two guys in beautiful blue safari style shirt adn shorts that petrolled the beach - that were soon on hand to blow their whistle at you and point to get out or move back up the beach if you looked out of control. They also did a fine job of trying to disperse the groups of indian guys 'walking' up and down the beach taking photos of the white girls in their bikinis on their mobile phones.
Was a treat to indulge in the seafood delights - again a welcome reprieve from the curry. Calamari, prawns, and all manner of fish - grouper, snapper, shark, king fish, butterfly fish, tuna. YUM!!!!
Varkala was also a reunoin of sorts for us with random meetings. Caught up with different people we had met in Goa, Kannur and even little old NZ. The NZ reunin was with the son of a good famiy friend of Anna's mum. Would be at least 16years since i had seen Clayton and was definately a little spinny - i knew that mum had ssaid him and his girlfriend Vanessa were in India, but what are the chances.... Made for lots of good dinner companions over the course of the week.
Little sad to be leaving the beach but excitement is building for Vietnam. Colin well adn truly embracing the travel vibe. Loved the comment - 'this is now officially the longest travel stint ever and think I am coping alright actually'.
Note: in reference to the title, a lovely little girl trying her hardest to sell us some particualrly crappy trinkets while we were trying to eat, was referring to colins bald head - needless to say he didn't buy anything!
Monday, 5 April 2010
Allepey Backwaters
From Kannur we arrived mid afternoon to Allepey. It is the northern access to the Kerala Backwaters. It was also the hottest place we have been so far - think melting!
Cruised around to try and figure out what cruise we wanted to do as anyone and everyone offering the same thing. Sorted a canoe tour for the next day and then missioned to Thaff for dinner - our favourite place so far on the tour for food (so good we went back the next night and i think we would have again if we stayed longer). Masala fish and chili paneer, curry fish and aloo gobi - all very spicy, flavoursome and so cheap. Both nights two mains, drinks, ice creams, rice and chapitis for 3.50 pounds.
Early morning start on our backwater canoe. Cruised for six hours through both main highways and smaller local water roads where you could see all manner of village life going on - all centred around the water. People washing clothes, themselves, dishes, fishing, diving for mussels, praying at mobile boat temples, brewing local booze. Canals surrounded by neverending rice fields. Both had a go at paddling to help our wee man out - was very hot v ery quickly. Turned into a three ice cream day with no trouble (and i wonder why i keep dreaming about ice cream!?!?!)
Headed to the beach in the afternoon for a swim to cool down and watched the sunset - lovely. Did both remark on the fact that although Indians seem to share every body function under the sun (spitting, nose picking, urinating, defacating, washing) that holding hands or kissing in public is a no no, you figure it out.
Decided to move on to the next location the next day as needed to be close to the beach in the stiffling heat, so hot we were struggling to breathe, talk about rivers of sweat - oh so attractive. So next morning saw us head to get some spices from the market, some snacks from the buhja man and sit in the shade until our train in the afternoon. Kept thinking how one of my lovely friends from work kept reminding me that when you are pregnant your body temp is 2degrees higher than normal - loving that in 39degree heat and very high hunidity - thanks christine!!
Cruised around to try and figure out what cruise we wanted to do as anyone and everyone offering the same thing. Sorted a canoe tour for the next day and then missioned to Thaff for dinner - our favourite place so far on the tour for food (so good we went back the next night and i think we would have again if we stayed longer). Masala fish and chili paneer, curry fish and aloo gobi - all very spicy, flavoursome and so cheap. Both nights two mains, drinks, ice creams, rice and chapitis for 3.50 pounds.
Early morning start on our backwater canoe. Cruised for six hours through both main highways and smaller local water roads where you could see all manner of village life going on - all centred around the water. People washing clothes, themselves, dishes, fishing, diving for mussels, praying at mobile boat temples, brewing local booze. Canals surrounded by neverending rice fields. Both had a go at paddling to help our wee man out - was very hot v ery quickly. Turned into a three ice cream day with no trouble (and i wonder why i keep dreaming about ice cream!?!?!)
Headed to the beach in the afternoon for a swim to cool down and watched the sunset - lovely. Did both remark on the fact that although Indians seem to share every body function under the sun (spitting, nose picking, urinating, defacating, washing) that holding hands or kissing in public is a no no, you figure it out.
Decided to move on to the next location the next day as needed to be close to the beach in the stiffling heat, so hot we were struggling to breathe, talk about rivers of sweat - oh so attractive. So next morning saw us head to get some spices from the market, some snacks from the buhja man and sit in the shade until our train in the afternoon. Kept thinking how one of my lovely friends from work kept reminding me that when you are pregnant your body temp is 2degrees higher than normal - loving that in 39degree heat and very high hunidity - thanks christine!!
Calming Kannur
Caught the overnight train from Goa to Kannur - was not the most restfull of sleeper trains as unfortunately Indians seem to be very short and the sleeper beds in the train don't fit tall people. This combined with the fact that our beds were next to the door of the carriage, and therefore it kept hitting our feet, made for a crap nights sleep.
We got on a rickshaw seemingly to the middle of nowhere to Kannur Beach House. It was another little oasis of calm, a stones throw from the beach which at this stage only has three homestays using it. Was long stretches of beautiful golden sands and noone else in sight 90% of the time - bliss. Our hosts Rosie and Nizhir, there three children and two dogs were lovely and served us amazing food. I was suprised to find all the dishes i kept asking about appearing on the menu - colin did tell me a day or so later that Rosie had told him it was Indian tradition to give a pregnant woman any food she asked for! I stopped mentioning things at that stage much to colins annoyance as he was keen for some crab!
Again lazy days on the beach, reading, walking and entertaining the nutty dogs - coconutty and curly as we named them.
Did manage to get to a Theyam - not all the bells whistles and fireworks as apparently can happen. We saw a somewhat lacklustre early morning ceremony which was all a little bizarre - was something to be seen though and colin even got a blessing from Vishnu. Hopefully some photos will follow. The costume was very elaborate though and the guy did have his arms above his head for a good couple of hours.
Had few issues with sorting trains for our onward journey - got to love the indian rail system. Ended up at the train station and seemingly got told one thing which was then wrong, brought back up tickets but should have had faith in our original booking as it came through in the end. Saw us leaving Kannur a little sooner than anticipated but with Easter and holidays thought best to go with it.
We got on a rickshaw seemingly to the middle of nowhere to Kannur Beach House. It was another little oasis of calm, a stones throw from the beach which at this stage only has three homestays using it. Was long stretches of beautiful golden sands and noone else in sight 90% of the time - bliss. Our hosts Rosie and Nizhir, there three children and two dogs were lovely and served us amazing food. I was suprised to find all the dishes i kept asking about appearing on the menu - colin did tell me a day or so later that Rosie had told him it was Indian tradition to give a pregnant woman any food she asked for! I stopped mentioning things at that stage much to colins annoyance as he was keen for some crab!
Again lazy days on the beach, reading, walking and entertaining the nutty dogs - coconutty and curly as we named them.
Did manage to get to a Theyam - not all the bells whistles and fireworks as apparently can happen. We saw a somewhat lacklustre early morning ceremony which was all a little bizarre - was something to be seen though and colin even got a blessing from Vishnu. Hopefully some photos will follow. The costume was very elaborate though and the guy did have his arms above his head for a good couple of hours.
Had few issues with sorting trains for our onward journey - got to love the indian rail system. Ended up at the train station and seemingly got told one thing which was then wrong, brought back up tickets but should have had faith in our original booking as it came through in the end. Saw us leaving Kannur a little sooner than anticipated but with Easter and holidays thought best to go with it.
Saturday, 27 March 2010
We're on a goa slow
It is day...4? of our time at Palolem Beach in Goa and the beach is definately working its magic. The days have been spent sunbathing, reading, swimming and eating seafood - what more could you ask for.
We were joined by Chris and Lou and their merry gang (dave, jane, nigel, jean, alex, graham, matt, james, stuart) for a couple of days. Was nice to have some fresh blood on the tour though we did seem to let the team down in terms of our beer skills (at least i have an excuse - colin just out of practice and poor form!)
Not a lot else to report really, heading down south to Kannur in Kerala on Sunday night - another beachside location, apparently amazing beaches, far less touristy and also the place to see some crazy rituals (think masked men with 7m high head dresses, drumming and chanting - could be interesting) and i am hoping the place to sample my favourite indian dish - prawn malabari, wooo hoooo.
Slight glitch in the matrix is that our camera seems to have given up the ghost at the moment - memory card still has all photos thus far (phew!), but what can you do!
Love, hugs and slight sunburn from us
GGTTFNxxx
We were joined by Chris and Lou and their merry gang (dave, jane, nigel, jean, alex, graham, matt, james, stuart) for a couple of days. Was nice to have some fresh blood on the tour though we did seem to let the team down in terms of our beer skills (at least i have an excuse - colin just out of practice and poor form!)
Not a lot else to report really, heading down south to Kannur in Kerala on Sunday night - another beachside location, apparently amazing beaches, far less touristy and also the place to see some crazy rituals (think masked men with 7m high head dresses, drumming and chanting - could be interesting) and i am hoping the place to sample my favourite indian dish - prawn malabari, wooo hoooo.
Slight glitch in the matrix is that our camera seems to have given up the ghost at the moment - memory card still has all photos thus far (phew!), but what can you do!
Love, hugs and slight sunburn from us
GGTTFNxxx
Thursday, 25 March 2010
Then there were three
Mumbai also served as a chance for us to have a 12 week scan and check up on the new addition to the ginger gene tour. Big thanks to Sudhir for helping us organise a scan in Mumbai, was nice to go to someone known, made things much easier and less stressful for us!
We are pleased to report that all is well - ten fingers and toes, one head and a healthy wriggling baby albeit very mini.
Thanks to everyone for their congratulations and good wishes. We are very happy and excited.
Also in answer to all the questions about what/where/when/how - well a few will be quite straight forward but the others are yet to be determined.
All of us are fit and well and loving India - pleased to be at the beach now, where it is not just RJ (Redfearn Junior) that gets to go swimming.
GGTTFN xxxx
Tuesday, 23 March 2010
Mumbai Madness
After our wee bit of peace and tranquility we spent an entire day travelling south from Rishikesh to Mumbai, via Delhi, by train, taxi and plane.
Although a much faster train trip back we did have a mad old badger sharing our compartment who started off as slightly amusing and then after several hours of chanting, hoikking, farting and demands we were well and truly glad to hop off the train. Our bargining skills were put to the test by the taxi drivers as we tried to get to the airport and go to love those small victories but there was no way we were backing down!
Our arrival in Mumbai was pretty straightforward and the traffic although heavy was nothing like the chaos of delhi - the heat did hit us though and as budget as we are with a non AC taxi we had our heads out the window for the hour ride to the hotel.
Sunday saw us take a leisurely stroll around Mumbai (don't think we could have managed anymore in the heat - soo much more humid down this way) and was pleased that it was seemingly very quiet. Watched about 40+ games of cricket being played in oval maiden (size of one cricket ground) and even braved cutting across the middle - although had to duck flying balls a couple of times!
Had a look at the Gateway of India, Taj Mahal Hotel and Palace, Crawford Market and then had a drink at Leopolds Cafe (for all you shantaram fans) - we even got asked if we wanted to be in a bollywood shoot the next day. That night we wandered along to Chowpatty Beach - Mumbai's equivalent to san Tropez. Ate some yummy cheap eats on the beach with all the families and watched the loons running the amusement rides (videos to come.... health and safety?).
Day 2 we braved Mumbai Rail System, which was suprisingly easy to negotiate. Did some shopping and other bits and pieces - regular ice cream breaks featuring quite highly on the priority list. We're lucky enough to time our stay with IPL (indian Premier league - cricket) 20/20 match at the stadium that happened to be across the street from our hotel. Was a bit of a mission geting the tickets - indians are extremely passionate about cricket and when it became obvious that the game was to be a sell out the line/crowd got all a bit crazy.
Managed to secure tickets - and great seats at that, so spent Monday night watching a game between the Mumbai Indians and the Colcutta Knight Riders. It was nothing like either of us have ever seen and was absolute madness - so much singing, dancing, tooting horns, with the most animated audience ever. The infactuation and adoration of the indian males for the all white chairleaders was a sight to behold. We ended up watching the men dancing as it was much more entertaining.
At the airport just waiting for our flight to Goa - can't wait for the beaches, has been soooo hot and humid and although we sampled the delights of the ganges Beach in Rishikesh i don't think it will compare. Crazy how we have been here for three weeks and this will actually be our first chance to tan and take some clothes off!
More to come soon - plus pics
Big hugs to all
GGTTFN xxxxx
Although a much faster train trip back we did have a mad old badger sharing our compartment who started off as slightly amusing and then after several hours of chanting, hoikking, farting and demands we were well and truly glad to hop off the train. Our bargining skills were put to the test by the taxi drivers as we tried to get to the airport and go to love those small victories but there was no way we were backing down!
Our arrival in Mumbai was pretty straightforward and the traffic although heavy was nothing like the chaos of delhi - the heat did hit us though and as budget as we are with a non AC taxi we had our heads out the window for the hour ride to the hotel.
Sunday saw us take a leisurely stroll around Mumbai (don't think we could have managed anymore in the heat - soo much more humid down this way) and was pleased that it was seemingly very quiet. Watched about 40+ games of cricket being played in oval maiden (size of one cricket ground) and even braved cutting across the middle - although had to duck flying balls a couple of times!
Had a look at the Gateway of India, Taj Mahal Hotel and Palace, Crawford Market and then had a drink at Leopolds Cafe (for all you shantaram fans) - we even got asked if we wanted to be in a bollywood shoot the next day. That night we wandered along to Chowpatty Beach - Mumbai's equivalent to san Tropez. Ate some yummy cheap eats on the beach with all the families and watched the loons running the amusement rides (videos to come.... health and safety?).
Day 2 we braved Mumbai Rail System, which was suprisingly easy to negotiate. Did some shopping and other bits and pieces - regular ice cream breaks featuring quite highly on the priority list. We're lucky enough to time our stay with IPL (indian Premier league - cricket) 20/20 match at the stadium that happened to be across the street from our hotel. Was a bit of a mission geting the tickets - indians are extremely passionate about cricket and when it became obvious that the game was to be a sell out the line/crowd got all a bit crazy.
Managed to secure tickets - and great seats at that, so spent Monday night watching a game between the Mumbai Indians and the Colcutta Knight Riders. It was nothing like either of us have ever seen and was absolute madness - so much singing, dancing, tooting horns, with the most animated audience ever. The infactuation and adoration of the indian males for the all white chairleaders was a sight to behold. We ended up watching the men dancing as it was much more entertaining.
At the airport just waiting for our flight to Goa - can't wait for the beaches, has been soooo hot and humid and although we sampled the delights of the ganges Beach in Rishikesh i don't think it will compare. Crazy how we have been here for three weeks and this will actually be our first chance to tan and take some clothes off!
More to come soon - plus pics
Big hugs to all
GGTTFN xxxxx
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